The rule of thumb from researching is NEVER drill a hole in any ceiling joist, it weakens the structure, Obviously, I don't want to do that. I am thinking to even out the load across joists. I can pick up some more pipe to make it cross 4 joists for the load. Some pics I have had electrical outlets already installed in all 4 corners of the ceiling in the barn Oct 30, 2.
You need to build a structure separate from the rafters that can carry the entire load the winch can lift. Oct 30, 3. The bottom chord of the truss is the weakest. Oct 30, 4. I wouldn't mess with the trusses, however if it's for light loads only and you can guarantee nobody will ever do otherwise I bet it would be fine. The box rail acted as a stiffener and let me move the hoist around. I lagged it into the floor joists above, which were certainly a lot beefier and more capable than the bottom chord of trusses, but I think if you're careful and you only do this for very light loads, you'll be fine.
I'd nail 2x4 blocking onto the side of the truss chord with rated 16D nails, and then lag your rail or support into the blocking. That way you're not messing with the truss structure other than a couple nails, which shouldn't be an issue. Stay away from or bridge any any splice plates in the bottom chord. So for me it comes down to whether or not you can guarantee the hoist will only ever be used for light loads.
Oct 30, 5. How heavy is the item you plan to lift? What items might you lift that you currently have no plan to lift but 'Hey theres that electric lift in the barn, will that work? The plus side is the hoist is light, looks tobe to lb rated? If you are only lifting lbs, toss a 4x4x8' long across as many rafters you can get it to span, in the bottom of one of the 'V' where bracing comes to the bottom chord, and hang your hoist in the middle with a short chain loop around the 4x4.
Much more than lbs, and youre pushing the limits of the trusses. Oct 30, 6. Joined Mar 14, Messages 7. I would not recommend it. Those roof trusses are engineered to support weight from above by transfer thru the 'w' members to the side walls by way of the bottom chord. Usually just a 2 X 4. Pulling down would rip the 2 X 4 from the plates at the joints, different from compression from above weight..
I understand that a tent is not too weighty Maybe better to have a rolling gantry or install a couple of posts and a header located up inside truss bay. I know it may seem like more work than it's worth , but hey, would be better than a truss. These are just my thoughts, good luck.
Winches are used to pull items along a reasonably level plane usually less than 45 degrees of slope. Hoists are used to lift and lower things straight up and down, or with a minimal angle.
Common uses for hoists are as engine lifts or to lift and lower heavy items in the back of a pickup. You can always put some sort of hoist in your garage. However, whether or not you mount a hoist to your garage ceiling depends on how your ceiling is constructed. If you have a floor above your garage, your ceiling is probably constructed with joists that stretch across your ceiling and support the weight of the floor above it. Trusses are designed to essentially push the walls and roof out from the middle of your house.
It also lists the typical weight limits for each so you can be sure your garage hoist will be safe. There are two possible solutions. This can either be an off-the-shelf gantry crane or a custom-built one like you see here. One solution is the Titan adjustable gantry crane. Personally, a gantry crane is my favorite option because you can take it with you if you ever decide to sell your house.
Another option is to skip the ceiling-hoist and use a mobile hoist or hydraulic floor crane instead. They definitely take up more space than a ceiling hoist, but a floor crane will work in any garage.
If your ceiling can support it, a ceiling hoist is the way to go. Electric hoists use a controller and an electric motor to lower, lift, and decelerate or accelerate its speeds. To help simplify your buying decision, hoists are classified according to their potential workload source. For most residential garages, an H2 certification is sufficient. This is designed to be a brief overview of the process. The below-mentioned materials and their specifications could vary based on the specific requirements of your project.
When shopping for electric hoists, there are a lot of different options, and not much that sets them apart. Taking down the measurements of your garage is the first thing you must do — perhaps even before procuring the required materials and tools. If your roof is flatter, you might require a longer bar. You can cut the pipe once the measurements are ready. The aforementioned measurements may not work with your fittings.
In other words, you may have to do some testing as to how deep the threads would screw before becoming tight. Needless to say, adjust things as required.
If the floor flange is bigger than the truss wood, rotate it so that the wood covers the mounting holes. Hire help to hold the frame in position while you make level adjustments. Drill a hole and bolt in one of the four flanges. Drill and bolt in the remaining flanges in a similar manner. Make sure the electric hoist is right in the center of the frame.
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