For ease of gripping, it's typical for a handrail to extend slightly beyond the top and bottom steps by a distance equal to the width of a stair tread. If you wish, you can miter-cut the ends of the handrail so the cut ends will form a vertical edge that is perpendicular to the floor. Using a level and tape measure, mark the wall at a point 36 inches above the nose of the stair treads, at the top, bottom, and middle of the handrail location.
These reference marks will show the location of the top edge of the handrail. For proper height, it's important that you make these vertical measurements from the exact nose of the stair treads. The height of the handrail can be adjusted slightly if you choose, but remember that the code-dictated height should be between 34 and 38 inches.
With the aid of one or more helpers, position the handrail against the wall so the top edge is against the reference marks you just drew. Now, make reference marks on the bottom of the handrail, at the point where the handrail intersects the lines marking the studs. These marks indicate the location of the tops of the support brackets. Position and attach the handrail brackets to the wall at the reference marks you made on the stud lines.
The tops of the brackets should be flush with the bottom edge of the handrail. Position the handrail so it rests on the brackets, making sure it has the proper overhang at the top and bottom. Secure the handrail to the support brackets with the U-shaped sleeves that fit around the arms of the brackets. Drive the screws in tightly with a screwgun. With a hardwood handrail, it's best to drill pilot holes before you drive the screws.
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Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Featured Video. Locate and Mark Studs Use a stud finder to locate the studs at the handrail bracket locations.
Select a height between 32 and 38 inches from the top of the stair tread. Place the carpenter's level on the lowest stair and press it level against the wall and against the nose of the second tread.
Draw a line on the side of the level where the top of the second tread meets the level. Measure and mark your desired stair rail height on the level beginning at the tread line you just drew. For example, if your stair rail height is 32 inches, measure 32 inches up from your first line and draw a mark at that point.
Subtract the thickness of the railing and the height of the bracket from your desired rail height. Most stair rails and brackets are each 3 inches high, but measure your materials to be sure. Deduct this total from the inch line you drew on the level. For example, if the stair rail and bracket each measure 3 inches, deduct 6 inches from the 32 inches you measured and marked on the level. Draw a new line on the level indicating this new measurement.
This measurement marks the location of the bottom end of the bracket. Place the level on the lowest stair and press it level against the wall and against the nose of the second tread. Draw a small mark on the wall at the bracket measurement line -- the second line down the level. Walk up the stairs and place the level on the second stair down.
Press the level against the wall and the upper tread and check the ensure it is level. Mark the wall at the bracket line as well. Stretch out the chalk line and have your assistant hold one end of the line 12 inches beyond the bracket line mark while you do the same on your end. Snap a line on the wall. This line is parallel with the staircase and marks the location of the bottom of the brackets.
Locate the studs in the wall with the stud finder. Slowly glide the device against the wall slightly above your chalk line. When the unit beeps, mark the location of each stud.
Your handrail should be secured to at least two studs but longer rails require attachment to three or more studs.
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