They all vary in shape, size, and of course, price. Upgrading your exhaust systems will mean fitting in larger pipes, mufflers with much lesser restrictions, and well-tuned resonators.
Their cat-back exhaust system has improved a lot of cars in the past, and it will sure make yours better too! The cat-back exhaust system is made from quality stainless steel, built with just the right diameter to optimize the exhaust gas airflow.
The bends are done using mandrel bending, just to make sure that the curves will force out the gasses as efficient as possible. The best thing about this exhaust system is that it can bring your Acura RSX up to additional 10hphp. That excess horsepower may not sound much but it counts if you want to rev your engine to its maximum. A lot of previous customers have expressed their delight with the DNA Motoring cat-back exhaust system, placing its place among the best Acura RSX exhaust systems.
The piping has the diameter needed to make sure the exhaust gasses will have an increased velocity towards the exit. Have you seen exhaust systems with burnt tips? Well, this exhaust system is one of them! The cat-back exhaust comes with removable silencers, light-weight stainless steel pipings, flanges, and all the necessary hardware needed for installation.
Although this may look just like any type of aftermarket exhaust, Spec-D Tuning highly suggests that you get the help of a professional instead of attempting to install it by yourself. Most manufacturers can set-up your Acura RSX, but out there in the aftermarket jungle, there is a commando; a hardcore specialist when it comes to Acura RSX. Their Acura performance cat-back exhaust is a direct fit into the OEM, so cutting off parts will not be required.
Their 2. Not Type-S, not the premium models: just the base. The unique design is the result of more than a decade of racing experience coupled with computerized modeling and extensive dyno testing. Each Skunk2 Alpha Series Header features equal-length, sequentially paired, stepped primaries and a tri-Y design that terminates into a collector with a 2. Alpha Series Headers also feature the smallest possible primary tubes required to achieve optimum overall and peak power.
Skunk2's Alpha Series Header for the RSX is designed to clear the OEM anti-sway bar K24 engines require downward-hoop-type anti-sway bar and is compatible with most aftermarket exhaust systems that bolt to the factory location using factory mounting points MegaPower RR Exhaust requires fabrication of supplied header adapter.
Pro 70mm Throttle Body - K Series. Pro 74mm Throttle Body - K Series. PST Office Hours: a. Let's take a look at where the two pipes which merge the exhaust gases toward the primary O2 sensor are welded together. You can see that the welds are meticulously dimed through and it's not just this pipe that is like this I was a huge fan of the thickness of these flanges.
The thickness of ALL of the flanges allowed me to really torque down the connections for this header to make it completely leak-proof. Here's the test pipe I was carrying around on Monday:. Everyone from muscle car guys to import guys was telling me how well-constructed these pieces looked. They were practically excited for me without even knowing what car I was bolting this to!
That's how you know car enthusiasts share a strong bond Here's where the test pipe accepts the donut gasket and bolts up to the collector. Again, look at the nice, thick flange:. And with the included gaskets, PLM made my life a little easier when it came to installing this piece, right? The next step after unboxing the beautiful set of stainless, welded pipes was to get the beautiful, dirty RSX up in the air.
Sorry Arcie! I'll give you a bath soon! After getting under the car with a cutoff wheel and a Dremel for the hard-to-reach spots I started cutting off old bolts that I couldn't break off with an impact gun. I decided to remove my whole exhaust so that I could get rid of any existing leaks by cleaning the faces of all flanges and replacing all gaskets and bolts. To start, i took off the mid-pipe:. While I was in Wisconsin, I tried to fix an exhaust leak where the mid-pipe met the resonator, however I couldn't get the bolts off with hand tools and I didn't have access to power tools, so I just covered the leak with some RTV sealant until I could actually fix the leak:.
After removing that monstrosity of a problem, I moved to where the flange of the muffler met the flange of the resonator and began to remove those bolts:. Then I removed the downpipe and catalytic converter combo pipe by popping off the spring bolts that held it to the old shorty header:. Moving around to my engine bay I started to remove the bolts that held the shorty header to the cylinder head:. With all of the exhaust components off I trudged on:.
Here is a pic of the downpipe clamped up:. With the downpipe clamped up, I opened up my Dad's box of special, extremely thin wrenches to use to remove my O2 sensors:. I then grabbed a rudimentary piece of pipe and used it as a cheater bar for both the primary and secondary O2 sensors. Aren't I a cool guy? Then I started cleaning all of the flanges for my exhaust. Doing this allows the mating surfaces to come cleanly together from pipe to pipe.
You put your gasket in between the two flanges and I put some RTV sealant on the gasket before putting the gaskets on to be extra sure I wouldn't get any leaks, and having a clean surface to do all of this with is extremely important. Otherwise the RTV sealant wouldn't do a thing, there would be uneven spots on the flange, causing the gasket to not sit flush, and ultimately it would make the exhaust sound like crap.
And I laid all of my exhaust parts out after I finished cleaning them:. Then I matched up the exhaust gasket for the new header with the test pipe on a vice:. And I got some anti-lock cream from Denso and I put it on the secondary O2 sensor's threads and put it in the test pipe:. This means it basically works as a dummy sensor which tells the computer if the air-fuel ratio is about at idle and cruising conditions, and if the ratio is not, then it adjusts the trim on the fuel injectors and ads or removes fuel as necessary.
A wideband O2 sensor has a wider operating range and can read a larger range of air-fuel ratios, so it's better for tuning because you can see what your air-fuel ratios are at no throttle, part throttle, and full throttle-- allowing for a more exact tune. Check out this source for more info.
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